Wednesday, July 18, 2007

A funny thing happened on the way…

So I’ve mentioned my whiteness a few times on here. And specifically, the utter lack of whiteness around me. At one point I went 3 weeks without talking to another white person, and it was Paula, the only American on FH staff here, both times. Suffice to say, people notice me. Everywhere I go, I elicit stares and usually some people yelling “hey Joe” (as in GI Joe) “pogi” (Tagalog for handsome) or “cano” (as in Americano). Kids laugh, freak out, or stare. It’s not as rude in Filipino culture to stare, so adults stare too. I’m getting used to the fact that when I get on a jeepney, everyone has to look me over. The driver does a double take in the mirror. You just get used to it.

But this morning, something new happened. Michael and I hopped on a jeepney heading toward Pila, about a half hour ride. There were the usual stares and smiles and then I settled into watching the beautiful scenery roll by. But five minutes in an unusual passenger hopped on. A white passenger. A very American looking, 20-something, white woman got onto our jeepney.

Now, when I get on a jeepney, everyone notices. Nothing major, but there is a noticeable ripple in the crowd (you can cram 25+ people into these things, so sometimes there really is a crowd). But with two white people, the ten or so Filipinos didn’t know what to do. Seriously. The tension on that jeepney was overwhelming. Some pinoys chose to stare determinedly out the window. Some stared at the floor. Others looked like they were trying not to laugh. I glanced at the woman. She glanced at me. The question “will they talk to each other?” kind of hung in the air. You could read it plain as day on the Filipinos’ faces. I think both of us white folk were pretty determined not to draw any more attention to ourselves or to be that out of place culturally, so we didn’t even make eye contact. Thankfully, she got off after a few short minutes and all the Filipinos breathed a collective sigh of relief.

Afterwards, Michael and I got a huge laugh out of this. We just could not believe how tense it had been in there. Who would’ve thought?

4 comments:

Heather said...

Haha. Too funny! (and awkward!)

Anonymous said...

Can't believe you didn't even say hi. Guess you had to be there. I'm starting to count down the days

Anonymous said...

Hey Joe!
Ha. You've captured the moment and feeling perfectly, moved me to flashbacks. I'm happy to see you're reflecting on your whiteness...and height I imagine. Though, this "out-of-place" feeling can't be all that unfamiliar to you - your humility, strength of character, and quiet wisdom have always separated you from the crowd. god bless

Anonymous said...

Haha, we have so much to talk about. I was riding in a LandRover alone through the bush one day with a driver and passed Bridget Hathaway, a missions worker from the UK whom I had heard of but not met yet. The driver assumed I was her relative and just stared to see if I would wave. I didn't, we were in the bush, you don't wave to anyone let alone another sticking out mzungu.